Blue Gans Restaurant 139 Duane St., nr. Church St.; 212-571-8880
You can thank chef Kurt Gutenbrunner and a tradition of doting Austrian mothers for the best eggs in town. They come soft-boiled and pre-peeled because, to loosely paraphrase the chef, young Austrian boys have better things to do with their time than peel eggs, and there is nothing a good AustrianMutter wouldn’t do for her little Augustus Gloop. At Blaue Gans, Gutenbrunner serves them two to an order in a martini glass, one nestled atop another like a pair of baby seals sunning themselves on a rock. It’s a striking presentation—one that you can find in any coffeehouse in Vienna, according to Gutenbrunner—and one you almost don’t want to topple until you dig in and discover how nicely cooked the eggs are with their soft whites, bright-orange yolks that are runny but not too, and nary a distracting shell in sight.